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A Tribute to Wilson Carne
My
first meeting with
Wilson Came was due to advice given to me by Mr. Harrison Ashforth after a
lecture at Probus Gardens many years ago just after I started to keep bees. He came by HA's
personal recommendation as the producer of some of the finest stocks in
Cornwall. I
duly contacted Mr. Carne and he agreed
to
sell me two queens of the Buckfast strain and our lifelong
friendship grew from the moment we met.
Wilson told me his
interest in bees started when he was a very young boy at his grandparents
farm in the parish of Zennor where he used to lay down on a large granite
boulder to watch the bees going to and fro from some twenty or so skeps
which stood on granite mushrooms in the bee garden. Because of my interest
in bees Wilson kindly offered to teach me his technique of breeding queen
bees for myself, I spent many wonderful days in Wilson’s apiary where he
showed me everything from making the wax cups to grafting larvae to the
production and hatching of the new queens. His knowledge was incredible.
The hospitality I
received from both Mr. & Mrs. Carne was amazing and I would like to thank
them both for that was most gratefully received. Wilson was a man of
endless knowledge and not just about bees but all faculties of life in
general. But his great love of bees shone like a beacon through
everything, his vast knowledge was gained by sheer hard work and
dedication and by working in his holidays for some of the biggest bee
farms in the country just for the experience.
Wilson Carne right picture with Terry West
I was saddened by
Wilson's passing but his wonderful memories will always be with me every
time I open a hive of bees as there in front of me will be something
Wilson had shown me and that will remind me of him. I feel honoured and
privileged to have received a life time’s knowledge and experience from a
wonderful friend and bee master.
Terry West
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I have a colony which has been plagued with chalk
brood. The queen is in her second full year and was somewhat
disappointing last year but I would like to give her a chance to prove
herself. Chalk brood is a fungus which attacks the larvae and kills it.
There is no recognised cure although requeening is said to be effective
sometimes. I tried all the treatments offered by folklore, including
using banana skins and sprinkling salt along the top bars, with some
promising interludes but no overall satisfactory result. Despite a rain
of mummies the colony is building up well and is strong enough, I believe,
to cope with shook swarm treatment.
The shook swarm is pretty drastic but can achieve
spectacular results if conditions are right. Basically all the old brood,
comb and stores are taken away and the bees are put in a clean hive on
foundation and fed sugar syrup until they can support themselves. All
sources of infection other than that which might be on the bee are
removed. I would normally use strong sugar syrup (2lb sugar/1pint water)
but having read a strong argument for the weaker (1:1) syrup during the
winter I am using it for the first shook swarm.
My foundation was left over from last year and so the
frames were left in the greenhouse to warm and lose their brittleness.
Foundation tends to warp a little when warmed, if overheated it may warp a
lot, but it can be flattened when warm by using two sheets of plywood cut
to fit inside the frame. One sheet is placed on a flat surface and the
frame of foundation fitted on top of it. The second sheet is placed on the
foundation and gently pushed down. The foundation is now flat. It makes
the removal of the plywood easier if the top sheet has a loop of cord
glued to it.
The hive to be treated is moved to one side and a clean
floorboard is put in its place. It is best to lock the queen in until she
starts laying and so a queen excluder is put on top of the floorboard.
Put a clean brood box with frames of foundation on the new floorboard and
then gently shake the bees, frame by frame, on to their new home. It is
good practice to locate the queen first and isolate her until all the bees
have been moved but it is not essential as long as the transfer is gentle.
Place a fresh crown board over the box and feed immediately. If there is
a strong flow the bees might ignore the feeder but the weather is fickle
and the feeder should be left on as a reserve until the colony is settled.
As soon as all the foundation is drawn a super can be added. It will help
if inner, drawn, frames without brood are moved to the outside from time
to time.
What does one do with the old frames? If the shook
swarm was used because of European Foul Brood then they will be
destroyed. The bee inspector will have supervised the whole procedure and
there is no alternative. If the shook swarm was for another reason one
must use one’s judgement. My frames containing brood were distributed to
other colonies. Those containing stores will be treated with acetic acid
before being used to stock nucleus boxes and the rest will go to the solar
wax extractor.
The Bailey comb change is a less drastic way of changing
the old brood comb. A clean brood box filled with frames of foundation is
put over the current brood box and left until some of the foundation is
drawn. If a drawn but unused brood frame has been saved from last year it
may replace a frame of foundation and speed the process. When the new
brood box has some drawn foundation it should be isolated with a queen
excluder top and bottom and the queen introduced. The colony must now be
fed until all the foundation is drawn. When the foundation is fully drawn
a super can be added. After 21 days there will be no brood in the old,
lower, box and it and its queen excluder should be removed. A fresh floor
should be given at this stage.
Swarming time is upon us. Keep checking for signs of
swarming and have a plan to deal with queen cells when they appear.
Louis
Riley
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